Churches (Day 35)

We took it slowly this morning, and Sam got accustomed to his new environment. Then we headed out to visit some churches I’ve wanted to see for a while.

First up was San Pantalon, without doubt the most impressive ceiling I have seen in my whole time in Venice. It’s free to get in and if you only ever see one church in Venice make sure it’s this one. As you look up it seems that the characters depicted in the frescoes on the ceiling are looking down at you precariously balanced on ledges around the room, and the centre spirals up to the sky, or heaven. I really can’t put into words how impressive it is! Photographs weren’t allowed, but I bought a postcard and have taken a photo of it to try to show what it looks like.

The story of Saint Pantalon was great too. It is claimed that he was brought up by a Catholic mother and Pagan father, but when his mother died he turned his back on Catholicism and became a physician. He rediscovered religion later in life after being convinced that he could heal wounds, but that God was the most powerful physician of all as he could heal souls. After curing a blind man and refusing to say it was an act of God, not of his own, he was sentenced to death but all attempts to take his life failed. He was thrown into the sea attached to a rock, but it floated. He was burnt at the stake but the fire went out. He was thrown to the lions but they refused to eat him. There was an attempt to behead him but the sword bent. Finally he was beheaded after he agreed to it. He is considered a martyr and worshiped in many countries.

San Rocco was next, the patron saint of infectious diseases. He cured the plague so they erected this Scuola in his honour, and Tintoretto decorated a lot of it. My mum told me to make sure I go upstairs in this one, as it’s the best bit. I forgot – sorry mum! But if anyone is reading this and planning a trip to Venice, go upstairs in the Scuola San Rocco, I have it on very good authority that it’s worth it.

We finished at the Frari, the location of Titian’s assumption. (Another photo of a photo).

It’s amazing that in the 1300’s buildings like this could be built. The stonework is the most impressive. It’s so precise that there is a distinct pattern to the walls. Others are frescoed and there are loads of paintings and carvings by famous artists. The sculptor Canova has his monument here that is made to look like a beam of light coming down from the window above. He actually carved it himself as a mausoleum for Titian, but they’ve now put Canova’s heart in it. The rest of his body is in Possagno. I’m not sure if Titian is in there with him, he’s definitely somewhere in the Frari.

We left the church and wandered home slowly, stopping off at an art shop by Campo Santo Stefano. Half the shop sells calligraphy pens, real paint pigment and ink, the other half sells toilet paper, cleaning products and hardware. It’s a bit of a bizarre mix, but handy if you have a very specific shopping list. They have a book for shoppers to try out the pens. Here are a few of the best pages from it.

Using my powers of artistic interpretation, I suspect this is a drawing of a willy disguised as the Eiffel Tower.

In Campo Santo Stefano there was a man on the roof, merrily wandering about doing his job without a harness. Like health and safety gone mad, but in reverse.

Closer to home we came across some more interesting shop window displays. Someone had put a lot of effort, paper and selotape into this slightly surreal scene.

I’d recommend avoiding the top floor of the Coin department store, unless you’re up for a bit of seduction.

But if you’re seduction is a little too successful there is always a shop that sells prams and baby clothes opposite.

We made it home and cooked a mean risotto and waited for our final new housemate, Rhian, who arrived a little later than expected because her bag had decided to take a detour. So when we were finally all together, we drank prosecco and got to know each other into the wee small hours. It’s quite strange spending five weeks with the same two people, and then suddenly one day they leave and two new people arrive.